Trematic Archivio Uno Ref. 502 — Choco

The Sellita SW200-1 is 4.6mm tall on its own, and Trematic has fitted it into a case that measures 9mm before the domed sapphire crystal, which adds another 1.8mm. That leaves 4.4mm of case for the dial, the hands and the caseback together, which is why the 502 slides under the cuff of a shirt instead of sitting on top of it.

Trematic was a Swiss brand founded in the early 1950s, and like hundreds of others it closed in the 1980s when the quartz crisis happened. Daniele Campagnano revived it in 2022, and the new team spent its first years bringing the quality up before it went anywhere near the archive. The Archivio Uno collection is where it finally went back to the old designs, and the Ref. 502 is the brand's own mid-century three-hand watch, built again around a current Swiss movement.

The Choco is the brown version, and I think it has the warmest dial in the range. It is a two-tone pie-pan, so the outer ring slopes down towards the edge and catches the light differently from the centre. The numerals and the wedge markers between them are rose gold, with the numerals in Trematic's original Arabic typeface, and a railway minute track runs around the edge. The dial is signed Trematic Watch Co., Automatic, 26 Rubis and Swiss Made, and that dial is where the 1950s look comes from.

The movement is the SW200-1 in Élaboré grade, which Sellita adjusts in three positions rather than the standard grade's two, and it runs at 28,800 vph with a 41-hour power reserve. It hacks and hand-winds, so setting it after a weekend off the wrist takes a few seconds.

The case is 38mm across with a 45.5mm lug-to-lug and a 20mm lug width. The strap is a dark brown leather alternative made from fruit, with a tan lining and quick-release pins, so changing it to suede or calf takes a minute and needs no tools.

The water resistance is 50m, which covers rain and washing your hands but not swimming. On a watch made to be worn with a shirt, I can live with that.

I am an authorised Trematic dealer, and this one is new and unworn, supplied direct by Trematic with the protective film still on the watch. It comes with Trematic's five-year warranty from the date of purchase, and the photos are of this exact watch.

Included: the watch on its dark brown strap, the Trematic presentation box, the certificate of authenticity, the warranty card and the operating instructions.

THE SPECS

• Reference: Archivio Uno 502 Choco
• Case: 316L stainless steel, polished and satin finish, solid steel caseback
• Size: 38mm diameter, 45.5mm lug-to-lug, 9mm thick (10.8mm including the domed crystal), 20mm lug width
• Crystal: domed sapphire with anti-reflective coating
• Dial: brown two-tone pie-pan, rose gold Arabic numerals and wedge markers, railway minute track
• Movement: Sellita SW200-1 Élaboré, Swiss Made automatic, 26 jewels, 28,800 vph, 41-hour power reserve, hacking and hand-winding
• Water resistance: 5 ATM (50m)
• Strap: dark brown fruit-derived leather alternative, tan lining, quick-release, pin buckle
• Warranty: five years from the date of purchase