How to Spot a Fake Watch: The Complete Authentication Guide

The best counterfeits don't fail on weight. They don't fail on movement—some use genuine Swiss calibres sourced from grey market suppliers. They don't even fail on dial printing, which has improved dramatically in the past five years.

They fail on details most guides never mention: rehaut engraving misaligned by fractions of a millimetre, lume that glows inconsistently under UV, date wheel fonts that are subtly wrong.

This guide covers those details—not the basics you've read everywhere else.

That's where we are now. Fakes aren't bad anymore. The good ones are genuinely good—until you know exactly where to look.

This guide is everything we check when a watch comes through our hands. Not theory. Not "tips." The actual process that catches counterfeits, including the ones that fool experienced collectors.

---

Why Most Guides Won't Help You

Search "how to spot a fake Rolex" and you'll find the same advice recycled everywhere: check the weight, listen to the ticking, look at the cyclops. That advice was useful in 2010.

Today's super fakes:

• Use genuine Swiss movements sourced from grey market suppliers
• Match case weight by adding metal inserts
• Source correct sapphire crystals with proper AR coating
• Print dials using equipment that rivals legitimate factories

The counterfeit industry has industrialised. Factories in Guangzhou produce fakes at scale with genuine quality control. They read the same authentication guides you do—then engineer around them.

We see watches weekly that would pass every check in a typical "spot a fake" article. They fail on details those articles never mention.

That's what this guide covers.

---

The Fundamentals: Still Worth Checking

These catches won't stop super fakes, but they'll filter out the 80% of counterfeits that are still cheaply made.

Weight Distribution, Not Just Weight

Everyone knows fakes are lighter. Counterfeiters know you know. So they add weights.

But they add them wrong.

A genuine Submariner's weight is distributed through solid links, a substantial case, and a dense movement. Pick it up and the weight feels centred. A weighted fake feels bottom-heavy or unbalanced—the added metal sits in the case or clasp rather than being distributed throughout.

Hold the watch by the bracelet and let it hang. Does it hang straight, or does it tilt toward the case? Tilt suggests weight distribution is off.

Seconds Hand Motion

At 28,800 beats per hour, a genuine Rolex second hand makes 8 ticks per second. To the eye, this looks like a smooth sweep. Cheap quartz fakes tick once per second—obvious.

But mid-range fakes use Chinese automatic movements at 21,600 bph (6 ticks per second). The difference between 6 and 8 ticks is subtle but visible if you're looking. The sweep is slightly less fluid, with microscopic pauses.

Watch the seconds hand for 30 seconds. If the motion looks even slightly stuttery compared to known genuine examples, investigate further. This helps if you can't open the caseback at that time.

The Cyclops Test—Done Properly

Yes, genuine Rolex cyclops lenses magnify at 2.5x. Fakes often hit 1.5x. You've read this before.

What you haven't read: the genuine Rolex cyclops is perfectly centred over the date window, with edges that appear sharp from every angle. Fake cyclops lenses often sit slightly off-centre—the date window isn't perfectly framed—or show subtle distortion at the edges.

Look at the date from multiple angles. Move the watch around. Genuine cyclops maintains clarity and centring from any viewing position. Fakes reveal misalignment or optical distortion when viewed obliquely.

Printing Under Your Phone Camera

Your smartphone camera is a better loupe than people realise. Zoom to maximum and examine:

The text at 6 o'clock. "SWISS MADE" on a genuine watch is razor-sharp with consistent letter spacing. On fakes, letter edges blur slightly, spacing varies, or the text sits at marginally incorrect distance from the dial edge.

The logo. The Rolex crown has specific proportions—five points with defined ball tips. The Omega symbol has precise curves. At phone-camera magnification, genuine logos look printed. Fake logos look reproduced—subtle softening, slight proportion errors.

Applied indices. Look at the point where each index meets the dial. On genuine watches, this junction is clean and consistent across all indices. On fakes, some indices may show microscopic gaps or adhesive residue.

---

The Details That Catch Super Fakes

This is where authentication actually happens. These checks require either tools, expertise, or both.

Rehaut Engraving: The Most Reliable Rolex Tell

The rehaut—the inner bezel ring visible between dial and crystal—is laser-engraved on modern Rolex watches with repeating "ROLEX ROLEX ROLEX" text and the serial number at 6 o'clock.

This engraving is Rolex's quiet security feature, and it's remarkably difficult to replicate correctly.

What to check:

The rehaut follows a specific pattern around the dial. At 12 o'clock sits the Rolex crown logo. At 6 o'clock, the serial number is engraved. Between these, "ROLEX" repeats around the ring with a distinctive alignment pattern:

On the left side of the dial (7, 8, 9, 10, 11 o'clock), the letter "R" aligns with the five-minute markers.

On the right side of the dial (1, 2, 3, 4, 5 o'clock), the letter "X" aligns with the five-minute markers.

Super fakes often get this pattern wrong—either misaligning letters entirely or using the wrong letter at the wrong position. Under magnification, check that R's appear at left-side markers and X's at right-side markers.

Note that even genuine Rolex watches may show slight rehaut misalignment—the crown at 12 might not perfectly bisect the marker. However, significant misalignment or incorrect letter positioning is a counterfeit indicator.

Dial Printing: What 10x Magnification Reveals

Under a loupe, genuine Swiss dials reveal their quality. The text isn't as sharp as it gets. Genuine printing has microscopic depth; you're seeing ink that was applied with precision equipment calibrated to microns.

Specifically examine:

Serif details. On text like "SUBMARINER" or "SEAMASTER," the serifs (the small feet at letter ends) should be crisp and consistent. On fakes, serif details blur or vary between letters.

The "SWISS MADE" baseline. Draw an imaginary line under the text. Every letter should sit on the same baseline with identical spacing. Fakes often show one letter sitting slightly higher or lower, or spacing that varies between letter pairs.

Coronet or logo application. On watches with applied (raised) logos, examine where the logo meets the dial. Genuine pieces show clean junctions with no visible adhesive or gaps. Check that the logo is perfectly level—not tilted even one degree.

Dial texture consistency. Sunburst dials should have lines radiating perfectly from centre. Run your eye along individual lines—do they stay straight, or waver? Matte dials should show consistent texture without blotches or variations.

Luminous Material Application

Lume is hand-applied on genuine Swiss watches. Skilled technicians fill each plot and paint each hand. Quality control rejects inconsistencies.

Fake factories have lower standards—and lume reveals this faster than almost anything else.

Under normal light:

Each luminous plot should be identical in size and shape. The edges should be clean with no material bleeding onto the surrounding dial. Plots shouldn't have air bubbles, cracks, or surface irregularities.

Compare the lume on hands to lume on indices. Genuine watches use matching material—same colour, same texture. Fakes often source hands and dials separately, resulting in slight colour mismatches.

Under UV light:

This is where fakes die.

Genuine Super-LumiNova glows with consistent intensity across all applications. Every index glows equally bright. Both hands glow to match.

Fakes show patchwork luminosity. One index glows brighter than its neighbour. The minute hand glows green while hour hand glows blue-green. Inconsistency under UV is near-conclusive evidence of counterfeit.

Carry a small UV flashlight when buying. This £5 tool catches fakes that pass every visual inspection.

Case and Bracelet Finishing

Finishing reveals manufacturing capability. Swiss factories have decades of expertise and specialised equipment. Counterfeiters have neither.

Brushed surfaces: Examine under raking light (light hitting the surface at a sharp angle). Genuine brushing shows consistent, parallel lines with uniform depth. Fake brushing often shows lines that waver, vary in depth, or change direction slightly across the surface.

Polished surfaces: Should be mirror-flat without distortion. Look at your reflection—is it clear and undistorted? Fakes often show subtle waviness or orange-peel texture in polished areas.

Transitions between finishes: Where brushed meets polished (like on Submariner lugs), the line should be razor-sharp. Fakes show soft transitions or finishing that bleeds across the boundary.

Bracelet links: Remove the bracelet and examine end links. Genuine end links fit the case precisely—no visible gap, no movement. Fake end links often show gaps or wobble slightly when pressed.

Clasp action: Genuine Rolex clasps have substantial, confident action. The Oysterlock clasp should click closed with authority. Fake clasps feel hollow, click weakly, or have slight play when closed.

Movement Inspection

If you can see the movement—through a display caseback or by removing a solid caseback—you're looking at the hardest component to fake well.

What to examine:

Rotor: The oscillating weight should be precisely finished with consistent decoration. Genuine Rolex rotors have "ROLEX" engraved with specific font and positioning. Omega rotors show the Omega logo. Check that engravings are clean-edged and properly positioned.

Bridge finishing: Côtes de Genève (Geneva stripes) should show actual depth—these are machined, not printed. Run light across them; genuine stripes catch light at different angles as you move. Fake stripes often look flat, like a photograph of stripes.

Screw heads: Examine the slots on visible screws. On genuine movements, slots are polished and all point the same direction (a sign of careful assembly). On fakes, slots point randomly and show tool marks.

Engravings: Movement engravings should match the calibre. Google the specific calibre number you expect and compare against reference images. Incorrect calibre markings are immediate disqualification.

Overall: Does it look like engineering or imitation? Genuine Swiss movements have an unmistakable precision. Every component exists for a purpose. Fake movements look like someone tried to replicate appearance without understanding function.

---

Brand-Specific Authentication

Different brands, different tells. Here's what to examine for the most commonly faked manufacturers.

Rolex Submariner (Most Faked Watch on Earth)

The bezel:

• Ceramic bezel numerals should be filled with platinum on genuine pieces—visible as a subtle metallic sheen
• Bezel action should click precisely at 120 positions per rotation (60-minute scale with half-minute precision), with zero backplay
• Pearl at 12 o'clock should glow consistently with dial indices—blue on modern Submariners (Chromalight, 2010+), green on vintage models (Super-LumiNova, pre-2008)

The case:

• Lugs should show sharp transitions between brushed tops and polished bevels
• Between lugs (remove bracelet): serial and model numbers are engraved with specific depth and font. Compare against verified reference images.
• Crown guards should be symmetrical and show identical finishing

The dial:

• Indices are 18k white gold on genuine steel Submariners—they have weight and depth
• "SUBMARINER" text uses a specific font with specific kerning. Letter spacing on fakes is often slightly wrong.
• Date wheel font should match reference images exactly. Fakes often use a font that's subtly different—rounder zeros, thinner strokes.

The bracelet:

• Genuine Oyster bracelets have solid end links with near-invisible seams
• The Glidelock clasp should operate smoothly with consistent resistance
• Dive extension deploys firmly. Fake extensions feel loose.

Rolex Daytona

Everything above, plus:

The pushers:

• Genuine Daytona pushers have specific resistance and tactile feedback
• Press without depressing: there should be zero play or wobble
• Pusher heads should sit flush with the case profile

The subdials:

• Spacing between subdials and hour markers is precisely specified. Fakes often show spacing that's slightly wrong.
• Subdial hands should be properly sized and shaped. Counterfeiters frequently get subdial hand proportions wrong.

The tachymeter bezel:

• Numbers should be engraved (not printed) with consistent depth
• "UNITS PER HOUR" text should be crisp under magnification
• The bezel should sit perfectly level—not tilted even slightly

Omega Speedmaster Professional (Moonwatch)

The dial:

• "SPEEDMASTER" uses a specific stepped applique—letters should show dimensional depth
• Subdial surfaces should show concentric circular patterns (on appropriate references)
• The applied Omega logo at 12 should be perfectly level and cleanly attached

The hands:

• The second hand's lollipop tip should be a specific diameter
• Hour and minute hands should show correct taper and luminous fill
• Chronograph seconds hand should reach exactly to minute track

The hesalite crystal (on standard Professional):

• Genuine hesalite has specific optical properties—slightly warm colour transmission
• The Omega logo etched inside at 12 o'clock is tiny but visible under magnification
• Surface should be authentically hesalite (plastic, not sapphire)

The movement:

• Current Moonwatch uses calibre 3861 with visible Co-Axial escapement
• Movement decoration should match Omega's published specifications exactly
• Serial number should cross-reference correctly with the case

The caseback:

• Seahorse medallion should show fine detail on Seamaster models
• Speedmaster caseback engravings should be crisp with specific wording
• Threading should be smooth and precise

Omega Seamaster 300M

The wave dial:

• Ceramic wave patterns should show consistent depth and spacing
• The waves are laser-engraved—they catch light differently as you angle the watch
• Dial colour should match Omega's specific shade (blue Seamasters are a particular blue)

The ceramic bezel:

• Numbers filled with white enamel or rubber, not paint
• Bezel action should feel precise with firm detents
• The 12 o'clock marker aligns perfectly with case centre

The helium escape valve:

• On appropriate models, the HEV at 10 o'clock should be functional
• The hexagonal head should be precisely machined
• Screwing action should be smooth

Tudor Black Bay

The snowflake hands:

• The hour hand's distinctive shape has specific proportions
• Lume fill should be clean-edged within the complex shape
• Fakes often get the angles or proportions subtly wrong

The rose or shield logo:

• Tudor transitioned from rose to shield—verify correct logo for production year
• Logo should be perfectly centred with clean application
• Gilt logos should show consistent gold colour

The gilt dial details:

• Gilt indices and text should show actual gold colour, not brass or yellow paint
• Consistency across all gilt elements

The rivet bracelet:

• Aesthetic rivets should be correctly sized and positioned
• Bracelet links should articulate smoothly
• End links should fit the case without gaps

---

Documentation: What Real Papers Look Like

Papers don't authenticate a watch. But fake papers often reveal fake watches—if you know what genuine papers look like.

Rolex Warranty Cards (Current Era)

Modern Rolex cards are credit-card sized with embedded security features:

• Green colour with holographic elements
• Serial and model numbers that match the watch
• Dealer stamp with legible name and date
• Magnetic strip (yes, genuine cards have magnetic encoding)

Tells:

• Print quality should be crisp—Rolex doesn't use cheap card stock
• The card shouldn't bend easily—genuine cards are substantial
• Serial numbers are laser-engraved, not printed—run your finger over them

Omega Documentation

Omega provides a card with warranty information and registration:

• Pictogram card showing reference and serial
• Cards match watch production era (design has evolved)
• Service history from Omega service centres is verifiable

Tells:

• Contact the Omega service centre listed to verify authenticity
• Omega maintains databases—serial numbers cross-reference with their records

Box Quality

Genuine boxes don't prove authenticity (counterfeiters produce convincing boxes too), but poor boxes suggest fakes:

• Construction should be substantial with clean edges
• Interior materials should feel premium
• Branding should be crisp and correctly positioned
• The box should match the era of the watch

A 2023 Submariner in a 2015-era box is suspicious. Either the box is wrong or the watch is.

---

The Seller Test: Questions That Reveal Fraud

How a seller responds tells you as much as the watch itself.

Questions to Ask

"What's the watch's history?" Legitimate sellers know provenance. They can explain how they acquired the watch, whether it's been serviced, and any relevant ownership history. Vague answers like "I got it from a friend" warrant scepticism.

"Can you provide dated photographs from multiple angles?" Specifically request: dial macro, caseback, clasp opened, and side profile. Sellers with genuine watches comply readily. Sellers using stock photos or photos from other listings are likely frauds.

"Will you accept a return if authentication fails?" Any seller refusing this is telling you something. Legitimate sellers stand behind authenticity because they've verified it themselves.

"Can I have it inspected before committing?" Resistance to independent authentication is disqualifying. Full stop.

Red Flag Responses

• "I guarantee it's authentic" — Guarantees without verification are meaningless.
• "I don't have papers, but..." — Possible, but demands increased scrutiny.
• "This price is only available today" — Pressure tactics hide problems.
• "I've had lots of interest" — Either true (so why hasn't it sold?) or manufactured urgency.
• "I don't do returns" — Because they know it might fail authentication.

Pricing Reality

Counterfeits are priced to sell, which means they're priced below market. Nobody leaves money on the table selling a genuine Submariner.

Current grey market prices for popular references are well-documented. WatchCharts, Chrono24 sold listings, and auction results establish ranges. If a price sits meaningfully below these ranges—15% or more—investigate why before investigating the watch.

Some legitimate explanations exist: urgent sale, estate liquidation, undesirable condition. But each explanation should be verifiable. "I just need to sell quickly" without documented reason is the most common cover story for fraud.

---

What We Actually Do: Our Authentication Process

When a watch arrives at CalderoneWatchCo—whether for sale or for our authentication service—it goes through systematic verification. Here's exactly what that means.

Visual Examination

Every watch is photographed under controlled lighting from every angle. Then:

• Dial inspection under 10x and 20x magnification
• Text sharpness, logo proportions, index alignment, lume application
• Crown and pusher function testing
• Case finishing examination under raking light
• Bracelet/strap inspection including clasp function
• Crystal examination for correct type and any defects
• Rehaut alignment check (Rolex)
• Bezel function and alignment

This stage catches obvious fakes and identifies areas requiring deeper investigation.

Movement Verification

For watches with display casebacks, movement examination happens visually. For solid casebacks, we open the case:

• Calibre verification against expected specifications
• Movement finishing examination
• Rotor condition and engravings
• Serial number verification where visible
• Signs of service, modification, or parts replacement

Opening a caseback requires proper tools and technique.

Serial Number Cross-Reference

• Check serial against brand databases where available
• Verify serial range matches production year and reference
• Cross-reference serial with any included documentation
• Check against known counterfeit serial databases

Documentation Review

If papers are included:

• Verify serial numbers match between watch and documentation
• Examine paper quality and printing
• Check dealer stamps for legitimacy
• Verify warranty dates align with production era

The Decision

Every check either passes, raises questions, or fails.

A single definitive failure—wrong movement, wrong serial format, clear counterfeit tell—means the watch doesn't sell. No exceptions, regardless of how good everything else looks.

Questionable findings trigger deeper investigation. Sometimes that means consulting brand-specific experts. Sometimes it means additional research into production specifics.

Only watches that pass every check reach our listings.

Our Authentication Service

Not buying from us? We'll still authenticate for you.

Whether you're buying privately, verifying a watch you already own, or checking something before committing elsewhere, our authentication service provides:

• Complete examination using the process above
• Written report documenting all findings
• High-resolution photographs of relevant details
• Clear verdict: genuine, questionable, or counterfeit
• Explanation of any concerns or findings

We charge for this service because it takes time and expertise. You get an honest assessment.

Contact us with the reference and situation. 

---

You Bought a Fake: What Now?

It happens. Here's how to respond.

Confirm Before Accusing

Get professional authentication before contacting the seller. "I think it might be fake" invites argument. "It has been examined and authenticated as counterfeit, with documentation" is difficult to dispute.

Pursue Every Avenue

Platform protection: eBay, Chrono24, and similar platforms have buyer protection. File immediately with full documentation—photos, authentication report, all communication with seller.

Payment provider disputes: Credit cards and PayPal offer fraud protection. File chargebacks with evidence.

Legal action: For high-value fraud, solicitors can pursue civil recovery. Document everything—it strengthens your case.

Report the seller: Action Fraud (UK), platform reporting, consumer protection agencies. Even if you don't recover your money, you help prevent the next victim.

Time Limits Matter

Most platforms have dispute windows—often 30-180 days from purchase. Credit card chargebacks have deadlines. Act immediately once you've confirmed the counterfeit.

The Watch Itself

Do not resell it. Knowingly selling counterfeit goods is illegal.

Options:

• Destroy it
• Keep it as a cautionary reference
• Surrender to authorities if requested

Some people wear their fake as a reminder. Most find that depressing.

Learn From It

Getting burned once makes you a better buyer forever. Review what you missed. Understand why you trusted this seller. Recognise the warning signs you ignored.

Then buy your next watch from someone who authenticates properly.

---

The Honest Conclusion

Counterfeits are a tax on impatience and optimism.

Every fake sale succeeds because someone wanted to believe: believe the deal was real, believe they didn't need verification, believe expertise wasn't necessary.

The watch industry doesn't protect buyers. Brands claim they can't verify grey market pieces. Platforms provide limited protection. Private sellers face no real accountability.

You protect yourself by knowing what you're looking at, asking questions that reveal fraud, and buying from sources that have done the authentication you can't.

This guide helps with the first two. For the third—that's what we're here for.

---

Questions about a specific watch? Get in touch. We'll tell you what we'd check and whether authentication makes sense.

Want independent verification? Our authentication service gives you certainty before you buy—or truth about what you own.