Baltic Watches: The Complete Buyer's Guide (2025)

Baltic went from Kickstarter project to one of the most respected names in independent watchmaking. Seven years later, they're not just a microbrand success story anymore—they're a brand. A proper one. Here's everything you need to know before buying.

What Is Baltic?

Baltic is a French independent watch brand founded in 2017 by Etienne Malec. The company launched on Kickstarter with a simple pitch: vintage-inspired design, honest specs, and prices that didn't require a second mortgage.

The first collection raised over £415,000 because watch enthusiasts saw something different. Designs that referenced mid-century chronographs and dress watches without being lazy homages. Finishing that punched above the price. A founder who clearly knew what he was doing.

Malec grew up around watches. His father collected them. It's the reason Baltic's designs feel familiar but unique. There's a coherent aesthetic running through every collection: warm dials, applied indices, vintage case proportions, and details that reward closer inspection.

The brand operates out of France, with manufacturing split between French assembly and Asian/Swiss movement suppliers. They're transparent about this. No pretence of being a manufacture, no vague "Swiss designed" claims.

Seven years on, Baltic has evolved from Kickstarter darling to legitimate mid-market competitor. They've moved upmarket with pieces like the Tricompax, while keeping accessible entry points with the HMS line. The hype has settled into respect—which is harder to earn.

Why Baltic Matters

Baltic stands out for a few specific reasons:

They have actual design identity. You can spot a Baltic across a room. The sector dials, the beads-of-rice bracelets, the warm colour palettes—there's a visual language that's theirs. Compare that to brands that release whatever's trending on watch forums that month.

They understand proportions. While brands chase 40mm+ case sizes, Baltic builds for real wrists. Their cases typically run 36-39mm with vintage lug-to-lug measurements. They wear like watches from an era when people understood that bigger isn't better.

They're honest about what they are. Baltic doesn't pretend to have in-house movements or century-old heritage. They use Miyota, Seagull, Sellita, and Soprod calibres, they modify and decorate them appropriately, and they price accordingly. This honesty is rarer than it should be.

They improve on references without copying them. The Aquascaphe nods to 1960s skin divers. The Tricompax references vintage chronographs. But they're not replicas—they're interpretations with modern twists and Baltic's own finishing standards. There's a difference between inspiration and plagiarism.

The price-to-quality ratio is difficult to beat. At their price points (roughly £300–£1,330), you're getting solid finishing, reliable movements, and designs that don't look like everything else. The dive watches use sapphire crystals; the dress pieces use vintage-appropriate hesalite. Competition exists, but Baltic consistently delivers.

The Current Lineup: Every Collection Explained

Aquascaphe

Baltic's flagship and the watch that built their reputation.

The Aquascaphe is a dive watch inspired by 1960s skin divers—before dive watches became oversized tool-watch clichés. It comes in several variants:

Aquascaphe Classic — 39mm, Miyota 9039 automatic, 200m water resistance. The original. Domed sapphire crystal with internal anti-reflective coating, fully lumed bezel, and a case shape that's more "vintage Blancpain" than "Submariner clone." The gilt and blue/gilt variants have become signature pieces. Thickness is 13mm (11mm without glass). Note: Being replaced by the Aquascaphe MK2 in late 2025, which offers two case sizes (37mm and 39.5mm), improved legibility, and updated finishing at £525–580.

Aquascaphe Dual-Crown — 39mm, Miyota 9039, with an internal rotating bezel operated by a second crown at 2 o'clock. Compressor-style case with more pronounced vintage character. Despite the dual-crown mechanism, it's actually thinner than the Classic at 11.9mm (10mm without glass). 200m water resistance.

Aquascaphe GMT — 39mm, Swiss Soprod C125 GMT movement, dual-time functionality. Same design language as the Classic with a GMT hand and 24-hour bezel track. The movement is reliable, though the GMT hand isn't independently adjustable—you set local time via the crown and the GMT hand follows. Fine for most travel use, limiting for true GMT purists. Water resistance is 100m on this variant.

Who it's for: Anyone wanting a dive watch with vintage proportions and genuine character. The Aquascaphe competes with pieces costing twice as much and often wins.

HMS

The dress/field watch line. HMS originally stood for "Hour, Minute, Second"—simple watches done well.

HMS 002 — 38mm, Miyota 8315 automatic (60-hour power reserve), sector dial. Sized appropriately for most wrists, legible enough for daily wear, elegant enough for formal settings. The sector dial gives it personality without being loud. Uses a hesalite crystal for vintage authenticity.

HMS 003 — 36.5mm, Miyota 8315 automatic, sector dial. A more compact version with 46mm lug-to-lug and 13mm thickness (10mm without glass). Same movement and similar dial aesthetic as the 002, but sized for those wanting smaller proportions.

The HMS line is where Baltic's vintage sizing philosophy shines brightest. Both models have 50m water resistance and use hesalite crystals.

Who it's for: First mechanical watch buyers, small wrist owners, anyone wanting a versatile daily wearer that works with everything from t-shirts to suits.

Bicompax

Baltic's entry-level chronograph and one of their original collections from 2017.

The Bicompax uses a Seagull ST1901 hand-wound chronograph movement—a column-wheel calibre based on the legendary Venus 175 from the 1940s. At around £450, it's one of the most affordable mechanical column-wheel chronographs available.

Bicompax 002 — 38mm, 47mm lug-to-lug, 13mm thick. The original size, sharing dimensions with the HMS 002.

Bicompax 003 — 36.5mm, 46mm lug-to-lug, 13mm thick. Reduced sizing to match the HMS 003. Genuinely compact for a mechanical chronograph.

Both variants feature hesalite crystals, sector dials matching the HMS aesthetic, and 50m water resistance. The column-wheel mechanism provides smooth, satisfying pusher action. Power reserve is 42 hours.

Note: The Bicompax 002 is being phased out of the catalogue (April 2025), with the 003 continuing as the main offering.

Who it's for: Entry-level chronograph buyers who want a column-wheel mechanism without paying Swiss prices. The 36.5mm Bicompax 003 is one of the smallest mechanical chronographs currently in production.

MR (Micro-Rotor)

Baltic's step up in both price and movement. Now called "MR Classic" on Baltic's website.

The MR uses a Hangzhou CAL5000A microrotor automatic movement—visible through the caseback, with the rotor integrated into the movement rather than mounted on top. This allows for a thinner case profile (9.9mm including crystal, 8mm without) and a more interesting view through the display back.

At 36mm with a 44mm lug-to-lug, the MR comes in silver, salmon, blue, and gold PVD variants. It's unambiguously dressy—Baltic proving they can compete above the entry-level price point without losing their design language.

The finishing is improved over the standard line—better dial work, more refined case finishing, and the microrotor movement itself is decorated to a higher standard than what you'd expect at the price. The Chinese-made movement keeps costs accessible while offering visual interest that standard Miyota movements can't match. Uses a domed hesalite crystal. Water resistance is only 30m—this is a dress watch, not a tool watch.

Who it's for: Buyers ready to spend more for a dressier piece with a more interesting movement. The MR sits around £455—competitive with entry-level options but with significantly more personality.

Tricompax (Scalegraph)

Baltic's chronograph and their most ambitious release to date. Now officially called "Scalegraph Classic" on Baltic's website, though "Tricompax" remains widely used.

The Tricompax uses a Sellita SW510-M hand-wound chronograph movement. The name refers to the three-register dial layout (tricompax = three subdials). It's a cam-lever mechanism with clean, satisfying pusher action and 63 hours of power reserve.

At 39.5mm with 47mm lug-to-lug, it maintains Baltic's wearable sizing despite being a chronograph. The case is 13.5mm thick (11mm without crystal)—reasonable for a mechanical chronograph. 50m water resistance.

Dial variants reference vintage chronographs without copying any specific piece. The panda and reverse panda dials are particularly well-executed.

Price point sits around £1,320–1,370 (strap vs bracelet), which is competitive for a Swiss mechanical chronograph. You're in Tissot PRX Chronograph territory but with independent brand character and better vintage-inspired design.

Who it's for: Chronograph enthusiasts who want mechanical rather than quartz, vintage aesthetics rather than modern sport, and don't want to pay £4,000+ for Swiss heritage branding.

Hermétique

The Hermétique line represents Baltic's field watch collection, launched in 2023.

Hermétique Tourer — 37mm, Miyota 9039 automatic, 150m water resistance. A field watch with vintage IWC-inspired case styling but distinctly Baltic execution. Notable for its 10.8mm thickness (8.3mm without glass) and integrated crown design. Available in steel (£460–525) or bronze (£500).

The Tourer uses sapphire crystal rather than hesalite, making it more robust than the dress-focused HMS or MR lines.

Who it's for: Those wanting a compact, capable everyday watch with field watch aesthetics. Excellent for smaller wrists at 37mm with 46mm lug-to-lug.

Movements: What Powers Each Model and What It Means for You

Baltic uses several movement suppliers. Here's what you're getting:

Miyota 9039

The workhorse for the Aquascaphe and Hermétique Tourer lines. Japanese automatic movement made by Citizen's movement division.

Specs: 28,800 bph, ~42-hour power reserve, hacking seconds, hand-winding capable. True no-date (no phantom crown position).

What this means for you: Reliable. These movements run for years with minimal service needs. Serviceable by any competent watchmaker. Accuracy is typically +/- 10-15 seconds per day out of the box. Not COSC, but perfectly adequate.

The honest take: Miyota movements aren't exciting to look at. They're not decorated. They're functional tools that do their job without drama. If movement finishing matters to you, look at the MR or Tricompax instead.

Miyota 8315

Used in the HMS line. A step up from the older 821A it replaced.

Specs: 21,600 bph, 60-hour power reserve, hacking seconds.

What this means for you: Longer power reserve than the 9039. Reliable and easily serviced. The lower beat rate (6 beats per second vs 8) means a slightly less smooth seconds sweep, but most people won't notice.

Hangzhou CAL5000A (Microrotor)

Used in the MR line only.

Specs: 28,800 bph, ~42-hour power reserve, microrotor automatic winding.

What this means for you: Thinner case profiles (the rotor doesn't need clearance space). More interesting caseback view (you see more of the movement). Better decoration than standard Miyota—perlage, blued screws, circular graining.

The microrotor design has trade-offs. Winding efficiency is lower than a full rotor—less mass means less momentum. For desk-bound wearers, you might notice it stops sooner when unworn. A watch winder solves this, or just give it a few winds before wearing.

Soprod C125

The GMT movement in the Aquascaphe GMT.

Specs: Swiss-made automatic GMT, 25 jewels, 28,800 bph, 42-hour power reserve.

What this means for you: Proper Swiss automatic movement. Caller GMT style (GMT hand adjusts, not local hour). Reliable and serviceable by any competent watchmaker. A step up from Miyota in perceived prestige and finishing.

Sellita SW510-M

The chronograph movement in the Tricompax/Scalegraph.

Specs: Hand-wound chronograph, cam-lever actuation, 28,800 bph, ~63-hour power reserve.

What this means for you: Proper Swiss mechanical chronograph. Cam-lever actuation (smooth, reliable pusher feel). More expensive to service than Miyota (£300-500 for a full chronograph service). Built to last—these movements are workhorse grade.

The honest take: At the Tricompax's price point, the SW510-M is impressive. You're getting movement quality that competes with watches at 2-3x the price.

Seagull ST1901

The chronograph movement in the Bicompax line.

Specs: Hand-wound column-wheel chronograph, 21,600 bph, 42-hour power reserve. Based on the Venus 175 architecture from the 1940s.

What this means for you: A genuine column-wheel chronograph at an entry-level price. Column-wheel mechanisms are typically found in watches costing £3,000+. The trade-off is Chinese rather than Swiss manufacturing and less refined finishing than the Sellita.

The honest take: For under £500, you're getting a proper mechanical chronograph with a column-wheel—something that shouldn't exist at this price. Reliability has improved over the years, and Baltic tests and regulates each movement. Service costs are lower than Swiss alternatives.

Sizing and Wearability

Baltic's sizing philosophy is one of their biggest differentiators. In an era of 42mm+ watches, they've committed to vintage proportions.

Case Diameters

HMS 003 / Bicompax 003: 36.5mm
MR: 36mm
Hermétique Tourer: 37mm
HMS 002 / Bicompax 002: 38mm
Aquascaphe variants: 39mm
Tricompax/Scalegraph: 39.5mm
Lug-to-Lug Measurements

This is the number that actually determines how a watch wears on your wrist.

MR: 44mm
Hermétique Tourer: 46mm
HMS 003 / Bicompax 003: 46mm
HMS 002 / Bicompax 002: 47mm
Aquascaphe (all variants): 47mm
Tricompax: 47mm

For reference: If your wrist is under 6.5 inches, the HMS 003 and MR will wear beautifully. The Aquascaphe works for wrists 6.25 inches and up. Anything over 7 inches can comfortably wear the entire lineup.

Thickness

MR: 9.9mm (8mm without crystal) — notably thin for an automatic
Hermétique Tourer: 10.8mm (8.3mm without crystal)
Aquascaphe Dual-Crown: 11.9mm (10mm without crystal)
Aquascaphe GMT: 13mm (11.2mm without crystal)
HMS 002/003: 13mm (10mm without crystal)
Bicompax 002/003: 13mm (10mm without crystal)
Aquascaphe Classic: 13mm (11mm without crystal)
Tricompax: 13.5mm (11mm without crystal)

The Honest Take on Fit

Baltic watches wear smaller than their specs suggest because they use shorter, curved lugs. A 39mm Aquascaphe feels nothing like a 39mm Submariner. The Aquascaphe hugs the wrist; the Submariner sits on top of it.

If you're coming from fashion watches or larger modern pieces, Baltic will feel small at first. Give it a week. You'll likely find yourself appreciating how watches should fit—present but not dominant.

Price Positioning: Baltic vs the Competition

Where does Baltic sit? Let's be specific. (Prices in GBP, excl. VAT from Baltic's website)

Under £335

Baltic HMS 002/003: £300–320

Competitors: Orient Bambino (£125–165), Seiko Presage (£250–375), Islander (£210–290)

Baltic's advantage: Design, finishing quality, and brand identity that the Japanese alternatives can't match. The Seiko Presage comes closest but tends toward busier dials.

£415–£580

Baltic MR: £455
Baltic Bicompax 003: £450
Baltic Hermétique Tourer: £460–525
Baltic Aquascaphe Classic: £485–550 (or MK2 at £525–580)
Baltic Aquascaphe Dual-Crown: £540–560

Competitors: Lorier Neptune (£375–415), Christopher Ward Sealander (£580–750), Farer Aqua Compressor (£665+)

Baltic's advantage: The vintage aesthetic is more refined than Lorier's slightly chunkier approach. The Bicompax offers a column-wheel chronograph at a price point where competitors use cam-lever mechanisms.

£750–£1,000

Baltic Aquascaphe GMT: ~£765–830

Competitors: Christopher Ward C63 (£750–1,000), Farer (£665+), Yema Superman (£1,000)

Baltic's advantage: At this level, you're paying for design as much as specs. Baltic's vintage-inspired aesthetic stands apart.

£1,250–£1,415

Baltic Tricompax/Scalegraph: £1,320–1,370

Competitors: Tissot PRX Chronograph (£1,165), Farer Carnegie (£1,165)

Baltic's advantage: The Tricompax offers vintage-inspired design that's hard to match at this price. You're getting a Swiss hand-wound chronograph with genuine character.

The Verdict on Value

Baltic isn't the cheapest option at any price point. They're rarely the most expensive either. What they offer is a specific vision executed at a price that doesn't require compromise.

If you want the cheapest automatic dive watch, buy a Seiko or Orient. If you want a dive watch with character, personality, and finishing that impresses beyond its price—Baltic earns serious consideration.

Best Baltic for Your Situation

Best First Mechanical Watch

HMS 003

36.5mm, versatile, affordable, and sized to work on almost any wrist. It's the watch that introduces people to why mechanical watches matter without overwhelming them. The sector dial adds visual interest without being polarising.

Best Daily Wearer

Aquascaphe Classic

200m water resistance handles real life. The 39mm case balances presence with wearability. Robust enough for actual use, refined enough for meetings. The beads-of-rice bracelet is comfortable enough to wear all day.

Best Dress Watch

MR Classic

36mm, thin case (under 10mm), refined dial, interesting movement. This is the Baltic you wear when the occasion calls for something elegant. The microrotor movement gives you something to show when someone asks about your watch.

Best for Small Wrists (Under 6.5")

HMS 003, MR Classic, or Bicompax 003

All at 36-36.5mm with moderate lug-to-lug measurements. These are designed for the wrist sizes that most modern brands ignore. The Bicompax 003 proves you can have a mechanical chronograph on a smaller wrist.

Best Chronograph Value

Tricompax/Scalegraph Classic

A Swiss mechanical chronograph under £1,415 with this level of design sophistication doesn't exist elsewhere. Full stop.

Best Entry-Level Chronograph

Bicompax 003

A column-wheel mechanical chronograph for £450. The 36.5mm case makes it genuinely wearable, and the Venus 175-based movement has proper horological heritage. For budget-conscious chronograph hunters, nothing else comes close.

Best "One Watch Collection" Piece

Aquascaphe GMT

Travel functionality, daily wearability, 100m water resistance, and enough versatility to dress up or down. If you could only own one Baltic, the GMT variant covers the most ground.

The Verdict: Who Should Buy Baltic?

Buy Baltic if you:

Want vintage aesthetics without vintage reliability headaches
Prefer smaller, properly proportioned watches
Care about design identity over brand prestige
Want independent watchmaking accessible under £1,665
Value honesty over marketing stories

Skip Baltic if you:

Need a brand name that impresses people who don't know watches
Want in-house movements or manufacture prestige
Prefer modern, larger watch proportions
Need deep water resistance for actual professional diving (the 200m rating is fine for recreational diving)
Require COSC-certified accuracy

Our take: Baltic represents what independent watchmaking should be—design-led, honest about what they are, and priced to deliver value rather than extract maximum margin.

They're not trying to be Rolex. They're not pretending to be a manufacture. They're a small brand making considered watches for people who pay attention to details. That's enough. That's actually quite a lot.

The competition has caught up in some areas. But Baltic's design coherence, vintage sizing commitment, and consistent quality keep them at the front of the pack. Seven years in, the Kickstarter hype is long gone. What remains is a brand that earned its reputation.

Browse our Baltic collection — we stock models ready to ship and can source specific references on request.

Questions about which Baltic suits you?

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