Yema Watches: Every Collection Ranked and What's Actually Worth Buying (2026)

Yema is one of the only French watch brands worth taking seriously in 2026. Swiss brands dominate the mid-range, Japanese brands own the value market, and German independents (Sinn, Nomos, Junghans) have carved clear identities. France barely registers on most people's watchmaking map — and that's exactly the gap Yema fills.

Founded in 1948, Yema has the credentials to back it up — the first French watch in space, official supplier to the French Navy, and the Superman dive watch that made the brand famous in the 1960s. They also make their own movements at their Morteau workshop near the Swiss border. Not Sellita. Not Miyota. French-designed, French-assembled calibres. Prices start around £700 — where you can already get Yema's own Yema 2000 movement in the Navygraf Heritage — and climb to £2,500 for the CMM.20 micro-rotor pieces. Yema sits in a unique position: cheaper than most Swiss independents, more historically credible than most microbrands, and completely unlike anything else available.

The range is smaller than Oris or Christopher Ward but more focused. This guide covers every collection, explains the movement tiers, and tells you what's worth buying.

Quick Summary: What to Buy

Best entry point: Superman Swiss Edition (~£700–£800) — the iconic Superman case with a Sellita SW200-1. 300m WR, 39mm, the cheapest way into Yema's flagship design.

Best in-house diver: Superman CMM.10 (~£1,400–£1,600) — same Superman case but with Yema's own movement, 70-hour power reserve, sapphire caseback. The one that justifies buying Yema over a Sellita-powered Swiss alternative.

Best value overall: Navygraf Heritage (~£700–£800) — 300m diver with Yema's in-house Yema 2000 movement and a vintage aesthetic that nods to the brand's French Navy partnership. Strong specs, strong design, fair price.

Best dressy Yema: Wristmaster Slim CMM.20 (~£1,800–£2,000) — micro-rotor manufacture movement, 9mm thin. The watch that shows Yema can do more than dive watches.

Best for enthusiasts: Navygraf Pearl CMM.20 (~£1,700–£1,800) — mother of pearl dial with the micro-rotor movement. Limited production, distinctive, and hard to find from anyone else at the price.

Who Is Yema?

Henry Louis Belmont founded Yema in Besançon, France in 1948. He graduated top of his class from the National Watchmaking School and set out to prove that France could compete with Switzerland in horology. For a few decades, he was right — by the mid-1960s, Yema was the largest French watch exporter, selling over 500,000 watches a year.

The Superman launched in 1963 and became the brand's defining product — a dive watch with a patented locking bezel mechanism that clicked into place and couldn't be accidentally rotated. French Navy divers used it. French Air Force pilots wore it. In 1982, astronaut Jean-Loup Chrétien took a Yema Flygraf to space on a Soviet mission, making it the first French watch in orbit.

The Quartz Crisis hit. Seiko acquired Yema in 1988 and the brand drifted under Japanese ownership for over a decade. In 2004, French management bought it back. In 2009, the Ambre group took over and started rebuilding — reissuing classic models, developing proprietary movements, and establishing the Morteau workshop close to the Swiss border.

Today, Yema is one of the few brands in the world — at any price — that designs and assembles its own movements in France. The Morteau workshop handles the CMM-series calibres (Calibre de Manufacture de Morteau), from the CMM.10 three-hand movement to the CMM.20 micro-rotor and the CMM.31 tourbillon. That range of in-house capability is unusual in the £1,000–£3,000 bracket.

The Movements: Three Tiers

Like Oris, Yema runs a tiered movement strategy. Understanding the tiers is the key to buying the right Yema.

Sellita SW200-1 (Swiss Edition models) — The entry-level tier. Powers the Superman Swiss Edition and some Heritage models. 38-hour power reserve, reliable, serviceable by any watchmaker. These watches are manufactured and assembled in Switzerland (not France), which is why they carry the Swiss Made label. Good watches, but they don't have the Yema-specific character of the French-assembled models.

Yema 2000 / Yema 3000 (Standard Grade) — Yema's own movements, designed and assembled in France. The 2000 is a three-hand automatic with 45-hour power reserve and 29 jewels. The 3000 adds GMT functionality. These power the Navygraf Heritage, Superman Heritage, and most of the mid-range. At this tier, you're buying a watch with a French-made movement — that's the differentiator over every Sellita-powered brand at the same price.

CMM series (Manufacture Grade) — The top tier.

• CMM.10 — Automatic, 70-hour power reserve, 28,800 bph. Powers the Superman CMM.10 and Navygraf CMM.10. The jump from the Yema 2000's 45-hour reserve to 70 hours is significant.
• CMM.20 — Micro-rotor automatic. The rotor is integrated into the movement rather than mounted on top, allowing for a thinner case (the Wristmaster Slim hits 9mm). This is Yema's most refined calibre.
• CMM.29 — Powers the Granvelle and Wristmaster Slim Small Seconds. Another micro-rotor variant with small seconds complication.
• CMM.31 — Tourbillon. Limited editions only, starting around £10,000. Exists to prove Yema's manufacturing range rather than to sell in volume.

The movement you choose determines what you're buying. Sellita models are good tool watches. Yema 2000/3000 models are French-made tool watches with specific character. CMM models are top-tier pieces that compete with brands charging significantly more.

The Core Collections

Superman — The Icon

Price: ~£700 (Swiss Edition) to ~£2,200+ (Slim CMM.20) | Case: 39mm or 41mm | Movement: Sellita, Yema 2000, CMM.10, or CMM.20 | WR: 300m

The Superman is Yema's most famous watch and the reason most people discover the brand. The patented bezel-lock mechanism — a crown at 3 o'clock that pins the bezel in position once set — is the signature feature. It originated in 1963 and it's still on every Superman today.

The current range spans the full movement tier system. The Swiss Edition (~£700–£800) uses a Sellita SW200-1 in a 39mm steel case, assembled in Switzerland. It's the cheapest Superman and the easiest entry point, but it doesn't have Yema's own movement or a sapphire caseback.

The Superman Heritage CMM.10 (~£1,400–£1,600) is the watch most Yema enthusiasts buy. Yema's own movement with 70-hour power reserve, sapphire caseback showing the Morteau-built calibre, 300m water resistance, and the same 39mm case. The price premium over the Swiss Edition is roughly £700 — what you get for that is Yema's own movement and a display back.

The Superman Slim CMM.20 (~£2,200) uses the micro-rotor movement for a thinner case profile. Dressier, more refined, and the most expensive Superman in regular production.

All Superman models come on a five-link heritage bracelet with a three-part clasp and diver extension — the bracelet quality is good for the price, with a satisfying weight and a vintage look that matches the case design. Rubber and leather straps are also included or available depending on the variant.

The Superman also comes in bronze (develops patina), titanium (MoonTide limited edition), and a GMT variant with the Yema 3000.

Buy this if: You want a dive watch with a bezel-lock mechanism nobody else offers and a French movement backstory that predates most microbrands by decades. The CMM.10 is the sweet spot — 70-hour reserve, 300m WR, Yema's own calibre visible through the back.

Navygraf — The French Navy Connection

Price: ~£700 (Heritage) to ~£1,800 (Pearl CMM.20) | Case: 38.5mm or 39mm | Movement: Yema 2000, Yema 3000, CMM.10, or CMM.20 | WR: 300m

The Navygraf is Yema's other dive watch family, historically linked to the French Navy (Marine Nationale). Visually it's a different animal from the Superman — broad arrow hour hand, triangular lume plots at the quarters, a matte dial that reads more military-issue than recreational-diver. No bezel lock here — just a standard unidirectional rotating bezel.

The Heritage models (~£700–£800) are the best value in the Yema range. You get the Yema 2000 (assembled in Morteau), 300m water resistance, sapphire crystal, and a design rooted in actual military supply contracts — for the same money as a Sellita-powered Superman Swiss Edition.

The Marine Nationale versions carry official French Navy branding. The GMT variant uses the Yema 3000 for dual timezone functionality.

The Navygraf Pearl CMM.20 (~£1,700–£1,800) pairs a mother of pearl dial with the micro-rotor movement. A 300m diver with a pearl dial and a French micro-rotor is an unusual combination — you'd struggle to find it from another brand at double the price.

Buy this if: You want the strongest value proposition in Yema's range (the Heritage at ~£700) or you want the military-issued aesthetic over the Superman's sport-diver look.

Superman vs Navygraf: The Decision

The Superman is the more famous watch — the bezel lock is the signature, the case shape is more distinctive, and it's the one with the name recognition. But the Navygraf Heritage gives you a Yema-produced movement for the same price that the Superman Swiss Edition charges for a Sellita. That's the key distinction: at ~£700, the Navygraf gets you into Yema's own calibres while the Superman gets you a Sellita.

If the bezel lock matters to you: Superman. If French movement at the lowest price matters: Navygraf Heritage. If you're going to the CMM.10 tier anyway (~£1,400+), both are strong and the choice is purely aesthetic.

Worth knowing: Yema runs frequent promotions — 10–20% off codes appear regularly through their newsletter and seasonal sales. The listed prices in this guide are full retail. Real purchase prices are often lower, which makes the value equation even more aggressive. All models come with a 2-year warranty.

Flygraf — The Pilot's Watch

Price: ~£700 (Heritage) to ~£1,500 (CPA10) | Case: 38mm or 39mm | Movement: Yema 2000 or CMM.10 | WR: 100m

The Flygraf traces its lineage to the watch Jean-Loup Chrétien wore in space in 1982. The current range includes Heritage models at ~£700 with the Yema 2000, and the CPA10 at ~£1,500 with the CMM.10. The CPA10 is designed in partnership with France's parachute commando units — the military connection is real, not marketing.

Visually, the Flygraf has a black dial with bold Arabic numerals, oversized luminous hour markers, and elongated lugs that give it a stretched profile on wrist. The case at 38–39mm is compact by modern pilot watch standards — more Flieger than IWC Big Pilot. 100m water resistance is fine for daily wear but modest for a watch with a military brief.

The Flygraf doesn't get as much attention as the Superman or Navygraf, partly because the pilot watch market is more crowded (Sinn 104, Hamilton Khaki Pilot, Oris Big Crown all compete at similar prices) and partly because Yema's dive watch story is simply stronger. But if you want the space connection and Yema's own calibre at £700, the Flygraf Heritage delivers.

Buy this if: You want a pilot's watch with the strongest backstory in Yema's range (first French watch in orbit) and prefer compact sizing.

The Rest of the Range

Rallygraf (~£350–£2,250) — Racing-inspired chronographs. The Alpine Cup Series at ~£350 is quartz and the cheapest watch Yema makes. The Heritage automatic chronographs use the Valjoux 7753 and sit around £1,500–£2,250. The brand's motorsport heritage is real — Mario Andretti wore a Yema at the 1969 Indy 500.

Wristmaster Slim (~£1,800–£2,500) — Dress watch powered by the CMM.20 or CMM.29 micro-rotor movements. 9mm thin. Small seconds at 6 o'clock on the CMM.29 versions. This is where Yema proves it can do more than dive and pilot watches. The finishing and proportions are strong for the price.

Granvelle (~£1,800–£2,250) — Dress watch with the CMM.29 movement. Named after the Granvelle Palace in Besançon. Round case with slim lugs, applied indices, and a cleaner dial than the Wristmaster — less sporty, more suited to a shirt and jacket. The most traditional-looking watch Yema makes.

Urban Traveller (~£850–£900) — Integrated bracelet sports watch. Yema's entry into the Tissot PRX / Frederique Constant Highlife territory. Clean design, reasonable price, and a more contemporary look than the heritage collections.

Is Yema Worth It?

Yes — particularly at the Yema 2000 and CMM.10 tiers.

The Navygraf Heritage at ~£700 with a French-assembled movement and 300m WR is hard to beat at the price. The Superman CMM.10 at ~£1,400 with a 70-hour power reserve from Yema's own calibre competes with watches from Oris (Calibre 400 Aquis at ~£2,000) and Christopher Ward (CW-001 pieces at ~£2,000+) while costing significantly less. The CMM.20 micro-rotor pieces at £1,800–£2,500 put Yema in Nomos territory — different aesthetic, different backstory, but comparable manufacturing credibility.

Where Yema falls short:

Brand awareness is low. Outside of France and the watch enthusiast community, most people have never heard of Yema. That's fine if you buy watches for yourself, but it means zero wrist-recognition and weak resale compared to Oris, Sinn, or Tudor. If brand cachet matters to you, Yema doesn't deliver it yet.

The pricing has crept up. Earlier Yema models with the Yema 2000 movement were around £600–£800. The CMM.10 pieces have pushed north of £1,400 and the CMM.20 models are approaching £2,500. The technology justifies the increase, but the brand is moving away from the accessible pricing that originally attracted buyers. The Swiss Edition at ~£700 fills the gap, but it's a Sellita watch assembled in Switzerland — which dilutes the "made in France" story.

Limited UK retail. Yema sells primarily through its own website (yema.com), with shipping from France. No UK stockists or showrooms. Returns are handled internationally. The buying experience is fine but not as frictionless as ordering from a UK-based brand or dealer.

Quality control has been inconsistent historically. Forum reports from earlier production runs mention timing issues and occasional build problems. More recent models — particularly the CMM.10 and CMM.20 — seem to have resolved this, and Yema's warranty covers defects. But it's worth noting if you're buying pre-owned from the earlier Yema 2000 era.

The bezel lock is polarising. The Superman's patented bezel-lock crown at 3 o'clock is either the brand's best feature or an annoyance, depending on how you feel about needing to unlock the bezel before rotating it. Some people find the mechanism fiddly. Others consider it essential for dive safety. Try it before committing if you can.

How Yema Compares

Yema vs Baltic: Both are French, both are independent, both have vintage-inspired design. Baltic uses outsourced movements (Miyota, Seagull, Sellita, Hangzhou). Yema makes its own. Baltic has stronger design variety and lower entry prices. Yema has a deeper backstory and proprietary calibres. If you want vintage-inspired design first: Baltic. If you want movements built in France: Yema.

Yema vs Oris: Oris has a broader range, stronger retail presence, and the Calibre 400 with a 10-year warranty. Yema has a more distinctive story (French Navy, space, 1960s dive culture) and a lower price on its own-movement pieces. Oris is the safer mainstream choice. Yema is for people who want something nobody in the room will recognise.

Yema vs Sinn: Sinn has superior case technology (Tegiment, submarine steel) and a clearer functional identity. Yema has proprietary calibres and more visual warmth. Sinn for engineering. Yema for character and distinctiveness.

Where to Buy

From us: We stock Yema at CalderoneWatchCo when available — authenticated, UK-based, no international shipping hassle. If you're after a specific model, get in touch.

Direct from Yema: yema.com — ships from France. Prices listed in EUR or USD; check the exchange rate. Returns processed internationally. Regular discount codes and promotions run throughout the year — sign up for their newsletter.

Pre-owned: Chrono24, eBay, and watch forums. Pre-owned Yema prices are soft — expect 50–65% of retail on most models. The brand's lower awareness means less secondary market demand, which is good for buyers.

Yema FAQ

Does Yema make their own movements? Yes. The CMM series (CMM.10, CMM.20, CMM.29, CMM.31) are designed and assembled at Yema's Morteau workshop in France. The Yema 2000 and Yema 3000 are also Yema-produced movements. Some entry-level models use Sellita SW200-1 movements assembled in Switzerland.

Are Yema watches French made? The CMM and Yema 2000/3000-powered models are assembled in France at the Morteau workshop. The Swiss Edition models are assembled in Switzerland. Both are designed in France.

What is the Superman bezel lock? A patented mechanism where a secondary crown at 3 o'clock locks the dive bezel in position once set. It prevents accidental rotation during a dive. Introduced in 1963 and still used on every Superman model.

Do Yema watches hold their value? Moderately to poorly. Expect 50–65% of retail on most pre-owned models. Brand awareness outside the enthusiast community is low, which limits demand. CMM-movement pieces hold slightly better than Sellita or Yema 2000 models.

What's the best Yema to buy first? The Navygraf Heritage if you want the best value — Yema's own movement and 300m WR for ~£700. The Superman CMM.10 if you want the iconic design with a 70-hour reserve. The Superman Swiss Edition if you want the cheapest entry point.

What Comes Next

Related reading if you're cross-shopping:

• Our Baltic brand guide — the other French independent, different approach
• Our Oris and Sinn brand guides — the closest competitors on specs and price
• Our Farer brand guide — British independent at similar prices, colour-focused where Yema is heritage-focused
• Our best dive watches under £1,000 guide — where the Navygraf Heritage and Superman Swiss Edition fit