Oris Watches: Every Collection Ranked and What's Actually Worth Buying (2026)

Oris might be the best value proposition in Swiss watchmaking. A 120-year-old independent, still privately owned, making mechanical watches with their own movements, 10-year warranties, and COSC certification — and the Calibre 400 models that offer all of that start around £2,000. Even the entry-level Sellita-powered models at £1,400–£1,500 offer serious Swiss dive and pilot watches at prices that undercut Tudor, Longines, and TAG Heuer across the board.

The catch: Oris has a big catalogue. Dive watches in three different families, pilot's watches in two, dress watches, motorsport chronographs, a growing lineup of in-house calibres, and more limited editions than most brands release as regular production. This guide cuts through it, ranks every collection, explains which movement to look for, and tells you what's worth buying and what to skip.

Quick Summary: What to Buy

Best entry point: Aquis Date 41.5mm (~£1,500–£1,800 on Sellita) — the default Oris. 300m WR, ceramic bezel, bracelet with micro-adjust. Solid.

Best overall: Aquis Date Calibre 400 (~£2,000–£2,500) — same watch, but with Oris's own movement: 5-day power reserve, COSC, silicon escapement, anti-magnetic, 10-year warranty. The upgrade is worth it.

Best retro diver: Divers Sixty-Five (~£1,500–£2,100) — vintage-inspired skin diver with a domed sapphire crystal and more charm than the Aquis.

Best pilot's watch: Big Crown Pointer Date (~£1,400–£1,800) — the signature Oris. Pointer date complication, aviation heritage, 1930s styling that's been in production for decades.

Best flex: ProPilot X Calibre 115 (~£5,500+) — skeletonised dial, 10-day manual wind, in-house movement on full display. The watch that shows Oris can play upmarket.

Who Is Oris?

Founded in 1904 in Hölstein, Switzerland by Paul Cattin and Georges Christian, named after a local brook. Oris is one of the oldest Swiss watch manufacturers still in operation and — critically — still independent. No conglomerate ownership. No Swatch Group. No LVMH.

That independence wasn't always a given. During the Quartz Crisis of the 1970s, Oris was absorbed into ASUAG (which later became the Swatch Group). In 1982, a management buyout led by Dr. Rolf Portmann and Ulrich W. Herzog restored the company's independence. One of their first decisions: abandon quartz entirely and commit to mechanical-only production. The slogan "High Mech" was coined in the 1990s to underline that commitment, and the signature Red Rotor — visible on every Oris automatic — has been the brand's trademark since 2002.

For most of its modern history, Oris used modified Sellita and ETA movements. Good, but not distinctive. That changed in 2014 when Oris resumed its own movement production after a 35-year gap. The Calibre 110 (10-day power reserve, manual wind) was the first. The Calibre 400 (5-day power reserve, automatic, COSC, anti-magnetic) followed and is now being rolled out across the core range. It's the reason Oris is having a moment — and why the brand is harder to argue against in 2026 than it's ever been.

Oris also takes sustainability seriously — not in the greenwashing sense, but in the "we'll build a watch from recycled ocean plastic and donate to conservation" sense. The Aquis Upcycle and Clean Ocean editions use recycled materials, and the brand partners with organisations like the Coral Restoration Foundation and various marine conservation groups. It's built into how they operate, not bolted on for marketing.

The Movements: Why the 400 Changes Everything

This is the most important thing to understand about Oris in 2026. Two tiers of watches exist in the range, and the movement inside determines which tier you're buying.

Sellita-based models (SW200-1 and variants) — 38-hour power reserve, reliable, serviceable. These are the entry-level Oris watches. There's nothing wrong with a Sellita SW200 — it's the same movement used by Sinn, Christopher Ward, and dozens of other brands. But it doesn't differentiate Oris from the competition.

Calibre 400 models — This is where Oris pulls ahead of everyone at the price. Five-day (120-hour) power reserve from twin mainspring barrels. COSC chronometer certified. Silicon escapement components. Anti-magnetic to over 2,500 gauss — more than double the Rolex Milgauss. And a 10-year warranty, the longest in the industry at this price, signalling that Oris trusts this movement to run without intervention for a decade. The 400 is currently available in the Aquis, Divers Sixty-Five 12H, Big Crown Pointer Date, and ProPilot ranges.

Calibre 115 — Manual winding, 10-day power reserve, proprietary. Used in the ProPilot X skeleton watches. This is Oris's statement movement — the one that shows they can build complicated, long-reserve calibres from scratch.

If you're buying an Oris in 2026, the 400 is the movement to target. The price premium over the Sellita versions is typically £400–£800, and for that you get a fundamentally better watch backed by a decade of warranty coverage.

The Core Collections

Aquis — The Flagship

Price: ~£1,500 (Sellita, 41.5mm) to ~£3,200+ (Cal 400, 43.5mm, special editions) | Case: 36.5mm, 39.5mm, 41.5mm, or 43.5mm | Movement: Sellita SW200-1 or Calibre 400 | WR: 300m

The Aquis is Oris's most popular collection and the watch most people think of when they hear the brand name. Modern dive watch, ceramic bezel, 300m water resistance, date at 6 o'clock, screw-down crown with crown guards.

The 2024 redesign sharpened the Aquis across the board — more sculpted lugs that hug the wrist better, a more tapered bracelet with broader centre links, and the Quick Adjust clasp on the 400 versions that lets you fine-tune the fit without removing links. Earlier Aquis bracelets were fine but unremarkable; the current ones are a genuine upgrade and compete with bracelets from Tudor and Longines. The changes are subtle on paper but noticeable on the wrist.

The 41.5mm is the sweet spot for most people and is available with both the Sellita and Calibre 400. The 43.5mm suits larger wrists. The 39.5mm and 36.5mm sizes cater to smaller wrists and are among the best-proportioned modern dive watches available at any price.

Sellita-powered Aquis models start around £1,500 and are perfectly good watches. The 400-equipped Aquis at around £2,000–£2,500 is the one to aim for — same case, same design, vastly superior movement and warranty.

Buy this if: You want a modern Swiss dive watch with serious specs. The 400 version at ~£2,000 outspecs everything from Tudor and Longines at similar or higher prices.

Divers Sixty-Five — The Charmer

Price: ~£1,500–£2,100 (Sellita) / ~£2,800–£3,000 (Calibre 400 12H) | Case: 36mm, 38mm, or 40mm | Movement: Sellita SW200-1 or Calibre 400 | WR: 100m

If the Aquis is the modern diver, the Divers Sixty-Five is the vintage one. Inspired by Oris's 1965 dive watch, it has a domed sapphire crystal, vintage-style lume, no crown guards, and a warmth that the more technical Aquis doesn't have. 100m water resistance rather than 300m — plenty for real-world use, but this isn't a watch for serious depth.

The Cotton Candy editions (pastel dials in pink, blue, green) have been hugely popular and added a playfulness that Oris typically doesn't go for. The bronze case variants develop a patina over time. The standard steel models in black, blue, and green are the classics.

The Divers Sixty-Five 12H Calibre 400 is a recent and welcome addition — the in-house movement with a 12-hour bezel for a second timezone, 40mm, 100m WR. It's the first permanent Calibre 400 model in the Sixty-Five range and it's strong.

Buy this if: You want a vintage-styled diver with more character than the Aquis. The Calibre 400 12H version is the best of the bunch if budget allows.

Aquis vs Divers Sixty-Five: The Decision Most People Face

The Aquis is the spec-forward choice: 300m WR, ceramic bezel, crown guards, integrated bracelet with Quick Adjust. It's a modern dive watch that happens to look good, built for the water first and the office second.

The Divers Sixty-Five is the design-forward choice: domed crystal, vintage proportions, no crown guards, 100m WR. It's a good-looking watch that happens to handle water, built for daily wear first and the occasional swim second.

If you need a single watch for everything and want maximum capability: Aquis. If you already have a beater or tool watch and want something with more visual character: Sixty-Five. The Cotton Candy and bronze editions give the Sixty-Five a personality the Aquis can't match.

One detail worth mentioning across both collections: the Red Rotor. Every Oris automatic has a red-tipped rotor visible through the caseback. It's the brand's signature — instantly recognisable and divisive. Some people love it as a trademark. Others think it cheapens the view through the display back. You'll know which camp you're in the first time you flip the watch over.

Big Crown Pointer Date — The Signature Oris

Price: ~£1,400 (Sellita, 36mm) to ~£3,000+ (Cal 403, 38mm) | Case: 36mm, 38mm, or 40mm | Movement: Sellita SW200-1 or Calibre 403 | WR: 50m

The Big Crown Pointer Date is the most recognisably "Oris" watch in the range. The pointer date complication — a central hand that indicates the date around the dial's edge — has been an Oris signature for decades. The oversized crown references the brand's aviation heritage (designed to be operated with gloves).

Multiple sizes, multiple colourways, and recently the option of the Calibre 403 (a date-modified version of the Calibre 400 with the same 5-day reserve and 10-year warranty). The 36mm and 38mm sizes are particularly good — Oris understands that a vintage-inspired pilot's watch doesn't need to be 42mm.

The 80th Anniversary Edition and various limited colourways (lilac, green, the recent "Bullseye" editions) rotate regularly and tend to sell well on the secondary market.

Buy this if: You want the most iconic Oris design, or you want a smaller vintage-styled pilot's watch with a unique complication. The 38mm Calibre 403 is the pick.

ProPilot — The Modern Pilot's Watch

Price: ~£1,400–£2,500 (standard) / ~£5,500+ (ProPilot X Calibre 115) | Case: 39mm, 41mm, or 44mm | Movement: Sellita SW200-1 / Calibre 400 / Calibre 115 | WR: 100m

The ProPilot range splits into two very different propositions.

The standard ProPilot models are clean, legible, well-built pilot's watches with day-date or GMT complications. They compete directly with the Sinn 104 and Hamilton Khaki Pilot. At £1,400–£2,500 they're solid but not remarkable — the Sinn arguably offers more technology and the Hamilton undercuts on price.

The ProPilot X Calibre 115 is a different animal entirely. Skeletonised dial revealing the in-house 10-day manual wind movement. Open barrel at 12 o'clock showing the mainspring. Non-linear power reserve at 3. This is Oris's most ambitious watch, and at £5,500+ it's priced to compete with entry-level luxury rather than the mid-range. Whether it succeeds depends on whether you think the Calibre 115 justifies the jump over a Calibre 400 Aquis at half the price.

Buy this if: The standard models if you want a solid pilot's watch without overthinking it. The ProPilot X if you want to see what Oris can do when they stop being sensible.

The Rest of the Range

Artelier (~£1,400–£3,500) — Oris's dress watch collection. Clean dials, date complications, and a more formal case shape. The Artelier doesn't get the attention the dive and pilot collections do, and that's partly because dress watches aren't what most people buy Oris for. But the finishing is good and the prices are fair for what you get. If you want an Oris in a suit, this is the one.

Chronoris / Motorsport (~£1,600–£2,800) — Racing-inspired chronographs and vintage-styled pieces. Niche appeal. The Williams partnerships have produced some interesting limited editions, but the motorsport collection isn't the reason people buy Oris.

Aquis Pro (~£3,000–£5,000) — Deep-rated dive watches: 1,000m and 4,000m versions. Massive cases (49.5mm). These are for actual divers and watch collectors who want an extreme tool piece. Not for most wrists.

Is Oris Worth It?

Yes — and the Calibre 400 makes it a near-unarguable case.

For £2,000–£2,500, an Aquis Calibre 400 gives you: an in-house automatic movement, 5-day power reserve, COSC certification, silicon escapement, anti-magnetic rating above 2,500 gauss, 300m water resistance, ceramic bezel, and a 10-year warranty. Find another brand offering all of that at the same price. You can't — because nobody does.

Where Oris falls short:

Too many limited editions. Oris releases special editions constantly — ocean conservation tie-ins, colour variants, regional exclusives, anniversary pieces. It can make the catalogue feel scattered and make it harder to know what's a core model and what's a one-off. If you're buying your first Oris, stick to the permanent collection.

The Sellita models feel overpriced in 2026. An Aquis on a Sellita SW200 for £1,500 was strong value five years ago. Now that the 400 version exists for £500 more with vastly better specs and a 10-year warranty, the Sellita models are a harder sell. If you're buying new, stretch for the 400. If you're buying pre-owned, the Sellita Aquis at 55–65% of retail is decent value again.

Case sizes run large on some models. The Aquis 43.5mm and ProPilot 44mm are big watches. Oris has been adding smaller sizes (36.5mm, 39.5mm Aquis; 36mm, 38mm Big Crown) but the flagship Calibre 400 pieces still skew toward 41.5mm+. If you have a sub-7-inch wrist, check the sizing carefully.

Brand perception lags behind the product. Oris is sometimes dismissed as "mid-range" or "gateway Swiss." The Calibre 400 has changed the technical reality — it outspecs watches from brands with more prestige — but the perception hasn't fully caught up. This is either a problem (if you care about wrist-cred) or an opportunity (if you care about getting the best watch for the money regardless of badge).

Resale is fair, not strong. Expect 55–70% of retail on most pre-owned models. The Calibre 400 pieces are holding better than the Sellita versions, and popular limited editions can do well, but Oris doesn't command Tudor or Rolex secondary market premiums.

How Oris Compares

Oris vs Tudor: The most common cross-shop. Tudor has the Rolex association, stronger resale, and the in-house MT5600 family. Oris counters with the 400's superior specs (5-day reserve vs 70-hour, better anti-magnetic rating, 10-year warranty vs 5-year). On pure technology, Oris wins. On brand cachet and resale, Tudor wins. You're paying for different things.

Oris vs Longines: Longines has the Swatch Group supply chain, longer heritage marketing, and some strong movements (the column-wheel chronographs especially). Oris has the Calibre 400, independence, and more interesting design variety. The Longines Spirit vs Oris Big Crown and the Longines HydroConquest vs Oris Aquis are both tight matchups. Oris edges it on specs; Longines edges it on finishing and retail presence.

Oris vs Christopher Ward: CW's Calibre CW-001/002 competes directly with the Calibre 400 on specs (5-day reserve, COSC). Oris has a broader retail network, more heritage, and a stronger dive watch lineup. CW has the Light-Catcher case finishing and lower entry prices. Both are excellent — Oris if you want established Swiss credibility, CW if you want British design at a lower price.

Oris vs Sinn: Different strengths. Sinn has Tegiment, submarine steel, and unmatched case technology. Oris has the Calibre 400 and a broader, more accessible range. Sinn for durability engineering. Oris for all-round Swiss watchmaking with in-house ambitions.

Where to Buy in the UK

From us: We stock Oris at CalderoneWatchCo — authenticated, UK-based, next-day shipping. If you want advice on which collection or movement tier suits you, get in touch.

Authorised dealers: Oris has a broad AD network in the UK — Beaverbrooks, Fraser Hart, Goldsmiths, and independent jewellers carry them. You can try most models on in person, which is an advantage Oris has over brands like Farer, Nomos, or Sinn.

Pre-owned: Chrono24, eBay, WatchPatrol. Oris pre-owned prices are soft — 55–70% of retail on mainstream models. Good for buyers, less good for sellers. Calibre 400 pieces hold better.

Oris FAQ

Does Oris make their own movements? Yes — the Calibre 400 (automatic, 5-day reserve, COSC) and Calibre 115 (manual, 10-day reserve) are designed and produced by Oris. Many models still use Sellita SW200-based movements, but the proprietary calibres are expanding across the range.

What is the Calibre 400? Oris's in-house automatic movement. Twin mainspring barrels for a 5-day (120-hour) power reserve, COSC certified, silicon escapement for anti-magnetic resistance above 2,500 gauss, and backed by a 10-year warranty. It's the single biggest reason to buy an Oris over the competition.

Is Oris better than Tudor? On pure specs, the Calibre 400 outperforms Tudor's MT5600 family. On brand recognition and resale value, Tudor wins. Both make excellent watches — which one is "better" depends on what you prioritise.

Do Oris watches hold their value? Moderately. Expect 55–70% of retail on most models. The Calibre 400 pieces hold better than Sellita versions. Popular limited editions can do well. Oris isn't a brand you buy for investment — you buy it because the watch-per-pound is hard to beat.

What size Oris should I get? The Aquis 41.5mm fits most wrists. The 39.5mm and 36.5mm suit smaller wrists. The Big Crown 36mm and 38mm are the best-proportioned models in the range for vintage-watch proportions. Avoid the 43.5mm+ unless you have 7.5-inch wrists or larger.

What Comes Next

Related reading if you're cross-shopping:

  • Our Sinn and Christopher Ward brand guides — the two closest competitors, broken down the same way
  • Our Farer brand guide — a different proposition (microbrand, colour-focused) but overlapping price range
  • Our best dive watches under £2,000 guide — where the Aquis and Divers 65 fit in the market
  • Our best pilot's watches under £2,000 guide — where the Big Crown and ProPilot sit
Back to blog

Leave a comment