The Farer 36mm Three Hand Collection: A Watch Review of Classic Designs

Farer has built its reputation on colour and confidence. While other brands play it safe with black and blue dials, this British brand releases timepieces in burnt orange, seafoam green, and deep burgundy — and makes them work. The new collection continues this tradition while addressing something watch collectors have requested: a smaller case size.

This watch review covers the entire lineup. If you've been waiting for a watch that fits smaller wrists — or if you simply prefer the proportions of a 36 mm case — this delivers exactly what you'd hope for.

We'll examine the spec, the movement, the finishing, and how these pieces compare to competitors like Christopher Ward.

What Is This Three Hand Collection About?

This represents the brand's first dedicated smaller-cased lineup. While various sizes have appeared across different models, this collection specifically targets watch collectors who prefer classic designs in moderate dimensions.

The original three hand offerings came in larger cases — typically 39.5mm or above. The new lineup scales these down while maintaining the design language that made previous Farer models popular in the first place. You're getting the same attention to finishing, the same quality movements, and the same distinctive aesthetic in a more compact package that many collectors have been requesting.

The collection launches with several colourways, including the red variant, the velvet black option, Resolute Sorbet, and Erebus. Whether you prefer bold colour or something more restrained, there's a variant that fits your preferences.

Why Release a Smaller Watch Collection?

The market has shifted considerably over the past five years. Where 40mm+ was once the standard expectation, collectors increasingly appreciate moderate sizes that don't overwhelm the wrist. Farer calls this responding to customer demand, but it's also smart positioning in a market where 36-38mm pieces are experiencing renewed interest from serious collectors.

The 36mm case offers genuine versatility that larger options cannot match. It works on smaller wrists that found previous offerings simply too large for comfort. It also appeals to collectors with larger wrists who want something that doesn't dominate — a timepiece that complements rather than announces itself to everyone in the room.

From a watch design perspective, the smaller case changes proportions in ways that benefit certain layouts. The configuration — hours, minutes, seconds, nothing else — gains more attention at smaller sizes. There's less empty space to fill, less dial real estate demanding visual complexity to justify itself.

What Are the Spec Details for the Discovery Red?

Let's examine the spec sheet for what many consider the collection's standout piece.

The case measures 36mm diameter with 41.2mm lug-to-lug measurement and 10.4mm thickness. The 20mm width accommodates standard straps, and the case comes fitted with either a steel bracelet or leather strap depending on configuration. Water resistance is rated at 50m — adequate for daily wear and handwashing, though this isn't positioned as a field watch or diver.

The dial presents the signature approach: a deep red sunburst finish with applied baton markers at the hours, arabic numerals at 12, and syringe hands filled with Super-LumiNova for nighttime legibility. The Farer logo sits below the index at 12 o'clock, balanced nicely against the overall composition. The caseback offers an exhibition case window revealing the movement, surrounded by engraved specifications. The bezel is polished steel, and sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating provides scratch protection.

What Movement Powers This Collection?

The La Joux-Perret G101 — a Swiss made automatic movement — represents a solid mid-range that punches above typical offerings at this price point. This calibre operates at 4Hz with 24 jewels and delivers a 68-hour power reserve that means you can leave it unworn over a long weekend and find it still running Monday morning.

The LJP deserves attention because it represents a meaningful step above the Sellita movements common at this price point. It offers better finishing when examined through the display back, improved accuracy specifications that hold up in real-world testing, and that substantial power reserve — nearly three full days of operation without wearing.

Through the exhibition window, you can observe the rotor spinning as the movement winds itself from motion. The finishing isn't haute horlogerie level, but it's genuinely respectable: brushed surfaces where appropriate, bevelled edges catching light, and enough detail to reward inspection. This calibre choice signals positioning above fashion pieces using generic movements — you're getting legitimate watchmaking.

How Does the Farer Universal Compare?

The Universal occupies a slightly different space within the three hand collection. Where other variants embrace bold colour without apology, it offers more restrained options suited to those wanting versatility across formal and casual settings without making a statement.

The red variant makes sense for collectors who already own conservative pieces and want something with genuine personality to rotate into their collection. The Universal makes more sense as a first serious purchase or as part of a rotation where neutral colours serve professional settings better. Neither approach is wrong — they serve different collectors with different needs.

What Makes the Discovery Black Velvet Different?

This variant takes a fundamentally different approach to the Farer aesthetic. Rather than vibrant colour that catches eyes across the room, it offers depth through texture — a black surface with a velvet-like matte finish that absorbs light rather than reflecting it.

The black velvet treatment appeals to collectors who appreciate the overall design philosophy but prefer darker, more subdued presentations for professional or formal environments. It creates interest without the colour of the red variant.

The contrast works particularly well with applied indices. Against the light-absorbing surface, polished baton markers catch and reflect light, creating definition and depth that a glossy black finish wouldn't achieve. It's thoughtful execution rather than simply offering "black" as a checkbox option.

How Does the 36mm Case Wear on the Wrist?

Case diameter only tells part of the story when evaluating wrist presence. The lug to lug measurement determines how the piece actually wears across different wrist sizes — and at 41.2mm lug distance, this sits comfortably on wrists from approximately 6 inches upward without any issues.

The 10.4mm thickness keeps things from feeling chunky. Combined with the standard strap width and well-designed lugs that curve toward the wrist, the proportions feel balanced rather than compressed. This isn't a larger piece scaled down awkwardly to hit a number; it's designed specifically for this size from the beginning.

On a 7-inch wrist — common among male collectors — the case presents as refined rather than small. It doesn't disappear into insignificance, but it doesn't demand attention either. Those already appreciating smaller pieces from vintage collections will find the proportions immediately comfortable and familiar. Those transitioning from larger modern pieces may need a brief adjustment period, but most adapt quickly and appreciate the refinement.

What Bracelet and Strap Options Are Available?

Pieces are available with either a steel bracelet or leather strap from the Farer website, allowing you to configure your purchase for your preferred wearing style from day one. The metal option adds approximately £100 to the price but offers versatility that many people usually prefer.

The steel option features a Milanese mesh design in certain variants or a traditional link design in others, secured with a butterfly clasp for comfortable wearing throughout the day. Leather options include the Granolo leather strap — a textured calf leather that develops character over time as it moulds to your wrist.

Quick-release spring bars on both options mean swapping takes literally seconds without any tools required. This versatility matters on a piece that might serve both office and weekend duties.

Is This Collection Worth Buying?

This concludes with an unambiguous recommendation: the collection offers genuine value for collectors seeking smaller case sizes without compromising on movement quality or design distinctiveness that separates enthusiast pieces from generic offerings.

The red is an excellent addition to any collection lacking colour and personality. Other variants offer cleaner presentations for those wanting the case construction and movement quality without more adventurous colour choices.

The combination of a quality Swiss movement, sapphire crystal, competent water resistance, and unique design creates a compelling package at its price point. Competitors at similar prices typically offer equivalent specifications but considerably less interesting execution. For collectors seeking something beyond the ordinary while maintaining wearability, this delivers exactly that.

Key Takeaways

• The Farer 36mm Three Hand collection offers distinctive design language in a smaller case size, addressing long-standing collector requests.
• Case dimensions: 36mm diameter, 41.2mm lug-to-lug, 10.4mm thickness, 20mm width — comfortable on wrists 6 inches and above.
• Movement: La Joux-Perret G101 automatic, 68 hours power reserve, 4Hz, 24 jewels.
• Key variants: Red, Black Velvet, Resolute, Erebus, and Universal.
• Water resistance: 50m — suitable for daily wear.
• Recommendation: Excellent value for collectors seeking smaller case sizes with genuine Swiss movements and distinctive design.

Have you handled the new collection? What's your take on brands like Farer competing at this price point — does the design confidence justify choosing them over more conservative options?